'No Rush and No Skyscrapers': HSE University–St Petersburg Master's Student on Her Studies in Oman
Vlada Bondarenko is a first-year student of the Master's programme 'Cross-Cultural Studies of Asia and Africa in the Context of International Relations' of the Institute of Asian and African Studies at HSE University–St Petersburg. This year, she spent the spring semester at the University of Nizwa in Oman. Read on to find out how the HSE University–St Petersburg academic mobility programme helped the student immerse herself in Middle Eastern culture and why studying in the country is unique.
Choosing the University
I have always been interested in visiting the Middle East to practice my Arabic language skills. I learnt about the academic mobility programme during my studies in the Bachelor's programme 'Asian and African Studies' from Milana Iliushina, Head of the Department of Middle Eastern and African Studies. My groupmates went to the UAE in the third year, but I missed the contest.
Oman has always attracted me with its traditions and rich culture: the locals speak a dialect close to fusha—the standard Arabic. It's the perfect place to implement the knowledge received at HSE University–St Petersburg!
The Studying Process
My studies at the University of Nizwa are my first experience of academic mobility. Initially, it was challenging for us and Arab students to understand each other. Some Omanis tried to speak English with me or pantomime.
At the university, the pace is relaxed: no one rushes anywhere (this goes for being late, delivering material, and solving formal issues within the framework of a study course). In the timetable, I had one to three classes per day. At the same time, exams are quite strict, which was unexpected.
I studied four courses: literature, history of Oman, academic writing, and Arabic. The studies were both offline and online. Another difference from HSE University–St Petersburg is that there are no seminars, only lectures. In some disciplines, in particular, the history of Oman and literature, we submitted written assignments. Each course had intermediate tests and final exams.
For me, it was a surprise that men and women sat on different sides of the classroom. Young men wear dishdashah (national white clothes), while young women wear black abaya and hijab. Libraries, lounge zones, and canteens are also divided by gender, as Oman is a country with a traditional Muslim social structure.
What I Liked about the Foreign University
Oman fascinates with the cordiality of its citizens from the very start. The professors were always ready to help when I couldn't find a classroom or didn't know how to draw up the necessary documents. It is also one of the safest countries—I felt comfortable both on campus and during trips.
The environment inspired me to study unexplored aspects of the Arabic language. The professors could switch from one dialect to another, and I closely monitored the nuances of linguistic constructions. The most interesting course for me was literature. In the lectures, we studied literature from the days of the Prophet Muhammad and the Umayyad dynasty. Our professor sometimes recited poems or sang during the class; it was extraordinary. The classes gathered not only students from Oman but also people from other Middle Eastern countries, Africa, and some exchange students from Europe. It created a truly multicultural atmosphere. Any boundaries can be expanded!
Daily Life
Nizwa is a cosy and neat city. In each area, you can find mini markets, cafes of Eastern cuisine, and tea shops where you can try karak—a traditional drink similar to sweet tea with milk and various spices. The best thing to order with the tea is halwa, but it's different from how Russians might know it. In Oman, it looks like jelly and is cooked in a vat, constantly stirred.
A typical working week lasts from Sunday to Thursday. There is almost nothing to do in Oman without a car. Public transport is underdeveloped and mainly comprises buses. Taxis are too expensive, so it is better to rent a car.
The best time to come is winter or spring when the temperature doesn't rise above a comfortable 27–30 degrees. At the end of spring, it was already hot—almost 45°C!
Three Things That Surprised Me in Oman
The pace of life
In Oman, people are never in a hurry. Locals may sit in the yard or parking lot, drink tea, and play cards. There is no rush; the rhythm is slow. Can you imagine people sitting like that in St Petersburg near the Mariinsky Theatre? It would be weird.
Hospitality
Omanis are friendly and open people. Meeting a foreigner in the street, they greet them first. The university security guards were very friendly, and often invited me to have coffee with dates, watch TV, or chat. When we hitch-hiked, the driver tried to gift us some milk at the end of the ride—just because!
No skyscrapers
I was struck by the approach to architecture, without skyscrapers or glitz, but well-thought-through and reliable. Omanis don't try to impress you with the scale, as in other Persian Gulf countries. Here, the good roads, neat site development, and absence of architectural chaos catch your eye straight away. The combination of simplicity and convenience creates a comfortable environment where you want to live.
Three Things to Do on a Trip to Oman
Visit old markets
Omani markets are traditional Eastern bazaars with labyrinths of narrow streets full of people, various scents, and colours. Places like this are known for their atmosphere, where you can feel the spirit of the old city. I recommend visiting authentic markets in Bahla or Nizwa—there, you can buy various accessories, spices, ceramics, and other things.
Travelling around the country
Oman is very diverse. Every few kilometres, you can find ruins of old settlements, fortresses, and forts. However, some historical and cultural sites are not marked on maps. It's always interesting to see the heritage of an ancient civilisation.
Dive into a tropical lagoon
The climate in Oman is mainly dry. If you want to get away from the blazing sun, you should go to the south of the country, to Salalah, which is near the border with Yemen. The city is shielded from the blazing Arabian sun by clouds. In this area, the temperature is comfortable around the clock.
The Academic Mobility Programme at HSE University–St Petersburg
A trip to another country is a great opportunity to implement theoretical knowledge and simultaneously improve language skills.
I got to know a different educational system, immersed myself in Middle Eastern culture, improved my Arabic language skills, and established professional ties with the research centre at the university.
One of the advantages of the programme is its flexibility—the course credits I received at the University of Nizwa will be transferred to HSE. I recommend drawing up an individual curriculum at the host university to replace HSE courses.
I am grateful for the chance to immerse myself in Omani culture!
What the Exchange Gave Me
This trip was a valuable experience for me in terms of expanding my cultural horizons and practising the Arabic language with native speakers. Thanks to the trip, I finally shaped my professional interests in the sphere of the Middle Eastern region. As for my emotional state, it was even better after the trip: I started to smile more, 'slowed down,' and learnt to be happy about simple things. My social circle expanded; I made new friends. It's vital to get out of your comfort zone to see the world in its full diversity.
To everyone who wants to go on the exchange programme, I would recommend making a list of places to visit in advance and not being scared to go beyond your campus or dormitory. This will help you to adapt to the unfamiliar environment faster.