The City I Love: Favorite Walking Routes Around HSE University in Moscow
I adore my hometown - Moscow. I want to share my favorite walking routes through the city center with you. These walks will help you not only see the main sights but also feel the true spirit of the city and discover unusual places that often don’t make it into tourist guides. All the routes are located near HSE University’s buildings on Pokrovsky Boulevard, so you can easily find time for a stroll between classes or after school.
Kitay-Gorod District
Let’s start with Kitay-Gorod, which I find one of the most vibrant and fascinating areas in central Moscow. Contrary to what many think, the district’s name has nothing to do with China — in Old Russian, "kitay" meant "fortress." The walls of Kitay-Gorod were built in the 16th century and still partially survive today — for example, you can see a fragment of the old brickwork on Varvarka Street.
The best time to explore Kitay-Gorod is in the evening, around 6:30 p.m. This is when the district comes alive: bars open, decorative lights turn on and the streets fill with people. Start your walk on Maroseyka Street, which leads from Lubyanka Square deeper into the district. Here, you’ll find the Church of St. Nicholas in Podkopay — one of the few churches that remained open even during Soviet times. Its 17th-century architecture has been preserved. Inside you can see fragments of original frescoes.
If you walk a little further, you’ll notice buildings with remnants of wooden structures — for example, at Maroseyka 7, there’s a timber-frame house later clad in brick. This is a rare example of Moscow’s transitional architectural style from the late 18th century.
Next turn into Podkolokolny Lane to see the Trinity Church in Nikitniki. Built in the 1650s, it’s considered one of the finest examples of Russian ornamental architecture with intricate details, arches, turrets and patterns. What makes this church remarkable isn’t its height but its complexity and the richness of its decorative elements. A little closer to Solyanka Street, you’ll find cafés and vintage shops that often host exhibitions and small concerts.
Just a few minutes away is "The Pit" (Yama) in Kitay-Gorod — an informal name for an art space that emerged on the site of a demolished building. It has become popular among street artists, musicians and students. The walls are covered in graffiti, and the space occasionally hosts informal events, film screenings or acoustic performances.
End your walk on Pokrovka Street, where you’ll find numerous bars located in historic basements. Some are decorated in early 20th-century style, while others feature live music. Overall, Kitay-Gorod is perfect for evening and nighttime strolls — lively, full of contrasts and steeped in history.
Chistye Prudy District
If you prefer a more relaxed walk, try the route from Chistye Prudy along Pokrovka Street. Chistye Prudy ("Clean Ponds") isn’t just a pond and a park — it’s a historic site often mentioned in literature and films. The name comes from the 18th century when Prince Menshikov ordered the pond to be cleared of garbage, making it "clean." A monument to Alexander Griboyedov — a playwright and diplomat who died tragically in Tehran — stands by the pond. His most famous work, "Woe from Wit", is required reading in Russian schools.
Stroll along Chistoprudny Boulevard, lined with 19th-century mansions and Stalinist buildings with columns. Street musicians, artists and students often gather here. At the intersection with Pokrovka stop by a café for coffee before continuing your walk.
Pokrovka Street is one of Moscow’s oldest and most important streets. It was once part of the road connecting the Kremlin with the eastern settlements. Today it’s lined with historic buildings. For example, at № 47, the writer and revolutionary Alexander Herzen once lived. During Soviet times the building became a tenement house and later a post office, which still operates today.
As you continue along Pokrovka, take note of № 22 — the former Apfelbaum estate, a beautiful example of Moscow classicism from the late 18th century. It once housed a famous music school.
Hidden in the courtyards of Pokrovka is a unique architectural gem — the Mazepa Chambers (№. 17, Building 1). Despite the name, the infamous traitor Hetman Mazepa never lived here. Built in the late 17th century, these chambers impress with their monumental scale and preserved decorative elements — a true fragment of old Moscow lost among modern buildings.
Pokrovka is also known for its shops and cafes. Here you can find everything from designer clothing to vintage treasures, trendy coffee spots to cozy Russian restaurants.
At the end of Pokrovka the street smoothly transitions into Maroseyka. On the corner you’ll see a building with an interesting history, the "Commode House" (Maroseyka 17/6). It got its name from its unusual shape, resembling a chest of drawers. Built in the late 18th century, it’s a striking example of Moscow classicism.
If you’re tired from walking, Pokrovka and Maroseyka offer plenty of places to rest and grab a bite. There’s something for every taste and budget, from affordable cafes to upscale restaurants.
This route is perfect for a leisurely walk allowing you to soak in the architecture and atmosphere of old Moscow. Here you’ll feel like part of history and discover many new and fascinating things.
Patriarch’s Ponds District
Another route I highly recommend is a walk around Patriarch’s Ponds. This is one of Moscow’s most fashionable and expensive areas, yet it retains a unique sense of coziness and tranquility. Patriarch’s Ponds isn’t just a pond — it’s a whole complex of parks, gardens and historic buildings.
Start your walk from Mayakovskaya Metro Station. As you exit you’ll find yourself on Triumfalnaya Square, home to the Satire Theater and a monument to Vladimir Mayakovsky — one of Russia’s most famous 20th-century poets.
Walk down Bolshaya Sadovaya Street toward Patriarch’s Ponds. Pay attention to № 10 — the infamous "Bad Apartment" from Mikhail Bulgakov’s novel "The Master and Margarita". Many of the book’s mystical events took place here and the building still carries an air of mystery.
Then wander through the park’s tree-lined paths, enjoying the quiet and fresh air. Don’t miss the monument to Ivan Krylov’s fables by the pond.
Around Patriarch’s Ponds you’ll find numerous cafes and restaurants where you can grab a snack or a cup of coffee. There’s something for every taste and budget, from casual cafes to high-end dining.
After exploring the park head to Malaya Bronnaya Street, lined with interesting boutiques and shops. Here you can find designer clothing, shoes, accessories, home décor and etc.
End your walk by visiting one of the theaters in the Patriarch’s Ponds area — from the famous Mayakovsky Theater to smaller more intimate venues.
Patriarch’s Ponds is ideal for a slow-paced walk, allowing you to appreciate the beauty of nature and architecture while soaking up the atmosphere of one of Moscow’s most stylish districts.
Zamoskvorechye District
Finally, I’d like to suggest a walk through Zamoskvorechye — one of Moscow’s oldest and most picturesque neighborhoods with a well-preserved historic atmosphere. Located on the right bank of the Moskva River, opposite the Kremlin, it’s a world of its own.
Start from Novokuznetskaya Metro Station. As you exit, you’ll find yourself on Pyatnitskaya Street, one of Zamoskvorechye’s main thoroughfares.
Pyatnitskaya is a treasure trove of 19th-century architecture, with preserved mansions, apartment buildings and churches. Note № 20 — the Kozhevnikov Estate, built in the classical style. Today it houses the museum of playwright Alexander Ostrovsky.
Continuing along Pyatnitskaya, turn into Klimentovsky Lane to see the Church of St. Clement, Pope of Rome — one of Moscow’s most beautiful churches, stunning in its grandeur and elegance.
Back on Pyatnitskaya look at № 43 — the Demidov Estate in Baroque style, now home to the Gnessin Music School.
Zamoskvorechye is famous for its churches, each with its own unique history and architecture. Be sure to visit the Church of the Resurrection in Kadashi — one of the district’s oldest and most beautiful churches.
Zamoskvorechye is a place where you can simply wander the streets and alleys, soaking up the atmosphere of old Moscow. It’s easy to get lost in its maze of lanes and stumble upon hidden gems.
The district is also home to many museums. Don’t miss the State Tretyakov Gallery — one of the world’s largest collections of Russian art, featuring masterpieces of painting, graphics and sculpture. After museum-hopping relax at one of Zamoskvorechye’s many cafes and restaurants.
Zamoskvorechye is perfect for a walk that immerses you in old Moscow’s charm, introduces you to its history and culture and lets you admire its architectural beauty.
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