The Rhythm of the Spasskaya Tower Festival

An international student recounts her experience at the Spasskaya Tower Festival.

The Rhythm of the Spasskaya Tower Festival

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A year and a half ago, I came to study in Moscow and I immediately fell in love with the city: its majestic architecture, the incredibly organized transportation system, the amazing views. However, one of the things I love the most about this incredible city is that you never get bored here, because there is always something interesting to do, something happening somewhere, something to see, something to experience for the very first time. While the most popular options are usually exhibitions, concerts, and walks in amazing parks and gardens, Moscow also holds several festivals that visitors should never miss. The Spasskaya Tower Festival is one of them, and I have found that it is usually not so talked about, but I had the opportunity to attend it this past summer and it absolutely impressed me.

The origin of this festival dates back to 2007. That year, it did not take place in Red Square, as it does at present, but happened instead on Poklonnaya Hill and was celebrated during Moscow City Day. The event was seen by more than 50,000 people and was of huge importance for the current festival.

The Awaited Event Begins

On the evening of the festival, I arrived early, leaving the metro at Okhotny Ryad and following the flow of excited spectators. A big line was waiting for me at the very entrance to Red Square; it was due to a check point with officers trying to make the celebration as safe as possible. When I finally stepped into Red Square, the sight stopped me abruptly, not because of the famous landmarks that I had seen many times before, but because of how they transformed in the golden summer light of the evening. St. Basil’s Cathedral, with a soft light on it, looked like a cathedral from a dream, and the Kremlin towers glowed in their characteristic red. The temporary arena that was built for the festival felt unusual because it occupied the whole width of the square and because it rose like a modern amphitheater built into centuries of history.

As soon as I stepped closer to the arena, some kind organizers came closer to hand me one of the free flyers for the event, which contained an explanation of what it was about, the name and order of each performance, as well as a short background history of the festival.

I was also shown the way to my seat, and I found it right in the fourth row in front of the GUM shopping center. As I settled into my seat and time passed, the golden summer light slowly faded away, and the evening arrived. The spotlights turned on, the crowds waited in anticipation, and Red Square looked more beautiful than ever. A presenter introduced several high-ranking military men in the audience, not only from Russia, but from all nations participating in the festival.

Then, the opening fanfare began.

A sudden burst of brass flooded the square, deep and resonant, like a call announcing the start of something historic. The President's Band of the Moscow Kremlin Commandant's Service of the Federal Guard Service of the Russian Federation marched in with perfect precision, each step a rhythmic echo across the ancient stones. Their uniforms sparkled under the spotlights. The audience started an excited applause, as if they were proud of what was about to happen, and although I was a foreigner, with little knowledge of military traditions, I also felt proud and in awe.

Beyond Military Music: Unexpected Artistry

The most surprising things about each performance were the overwhelming perfection with which these young men and women performed their routines, but also the creativity of the participants and their diversity. Generally speaking, ten foreign military collectives from 9 countries attended the event on that occasion: the Republic of Belarus, Burkina Faso, Zimbabwe, Italy, Kazakhstan, Mongolia, Ethiopia, the United Arab Emirates, and the Czech Republic.

After the Russian ensembles performed, the arena went dark for a moment. A spotlight snapped on, revealing musicians from Burkina Faso, Africa, dressed in military uniforms as well but carrying traditional instruments and the rhythm of their culture. The shift from Russian military drums to African melodies was so unanticipated that it was possible to feel the exhilaration of the audience. Moments later, performers from Kazakhstan marched in with a dance routine that impressed me for its accuracy, complexity, and originality. Dancers from Zimbabwe awestruck the observers as well with their colorful flags, drums, dances, and characteristic rhythm of their nation. Each performance brought its own soul, its own story.

Before attending the festival, I had expected it was exclusively about military orchestras and, therefore, I had the preconceived idea that it was going to be stiff, ceremonial, and extremely official. But what I witnessed was not rigid at all because each performance mixed traditional military discipline with artistry.

The lighting that night made the square shine in constantly changing colors: deep blues, fiery reds reminiscent of Russian folklore, golden ones. During one performance, the entire arena became dark, except for a single spotlight illuminating a young soprano who sang a Russian war song with so much emotion that it really moved the crowd.

Traditionally, the best representatives of the security agencies of Russia perform at the festival. For example, it was possible to see the Presidential Orchestra Service of the Commandant of the Moscow Kremlin of the Federal Security Service of the Russian Federation, the Special Guard Company of the Presidential Regiment Service of the Commandant of the Moscow Kremlin of the Federal Security Service of the Russian Federation, the Central Military Orchestra of the Ministry of Defense of the Russian Federation, the Central Concert-style Orchestra of the Navy named for N. A. Rimsky-Korsakov, the Central Border Ensemble of the Federal Security Service of the Russian Federation, among others. It was possible to see paratroopers, tanks, children's orchestras, and female representation as well.

One of the most interesting things was that the visiting orchestras paid respect to the country that welcomed them and the glorious Russian culture by performing many well-known folk and war songs. This kind gesture took the audience by surprise and moved them as well.

My favorite performance was the one from The Central Band of the Border Guard Service of the Federal Security Service of the Russian Federation. They performed a medley of several popular war and folk songs such as "Ballad of a Soldier," "On the Road from Berlin," "Katyusha," "Because We are Pilots," "The Victory," "On our shoulders we have green epaulettes," among others.

The Grand Finale

For the final act, all the ensembles returned to the square, which transformed into a vibrant sea of colors, uniforms, flags, and instruments. Hundreds of performers filled the space and every cobblestone: drummers, dancers, orchestra directors, trumpeters, soldiers, singers. They played a powerful piece that blended motifs from every participating nation. It was chaotic yet harmonious, like the world performing in a single heartbeat. The crowd became hectic; they clapped, sang, stood up, danced, and some even cried.

I stood there, completely covered in the cool Moscow night, with the sensation of being both unbelievably small and connected at the same time. Under the Kremlin’s ancient towers and walls, surrounded by strangers and a historical atmosphere, I felt a unity and a warm, deep feeling I had never expected to find so far from home.

If you are studying in Moscow, or happen to be visiting during the end of summer, I strongly recommend you not miss the Spasskaya Tower Festival next year. It really does not matter whether you love music, are keen on military ceremonies, want to witness performers from other nations, or simply want to understand Russia better, because at the Spasskaya Tower you will find it all, especially a rare window into Russia’s heart and its spirit of international welcomeness and collaboration.

You can visit the site: www.spasstower.ru to learn more about the event organization.

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Edith Maria Carmona Ramos